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A credit score is a three-digit number, usually on a 300-850 scale, that summarises how reliably you have repaid borrowed money. Lenders read it as a probability estimate: the odds that you will pay back what they lend you, on the schedule you agreed to. That single number influences whether your loan or credit card application is approved, what interest rate you are offered, the size of the credit line, and in some US states, the price of your auto and home insurance. A score above 750 unlocks the best mortgage rates, premium card rewards, and quick apartment approvals. A score below 620 does the opposite: higher rates, larger deposits, more denials. It is one of the highest-leverage numbers in a US financial life, and the rules that move it are public and improvable.
The score most lenders actually use is the FICO Score, built by Fair Isaac Corporation. It runs from 300 to 850 and breaks down like this:
| Range | Rating | What It Means |
|---|---|---|
| 800-850 | Exceptional | Best rates available. Automatic approval for most products. |
| 740-799 | Very Good | Above-average rates. Easy approval. |
| 670-739 | Good | Average rates. Most applications approved. |
| 580-669 | Fair | Subprime rates. Some applications denied. |
| 300-579 | Poor | High rates or denial. Secured cards and rebuilding needed. |
An alternative model, VantageScore, was developed jointly by the three credit bureaus (Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion). It uses the same 300-850 range but weighs the inputs slightly differently. Most lenders pull FICO when an actual credit decision is on the line. VantageScore is what you tend to see in free credit-monitoring apps, which is fine for tracking direction but not identical to the number a lender will use (if you're European reading this — credit scoring works completely differently in most of the EU, so treat this whole article as US-specific).
The FICO score is computed from five categories of information in your credit report. The weights are fixed and worth memorising, because they tell you exactly where to spend effort.
The largest single factor. Have you paid your bills on time? A single late payment of 30 days or more can knock 50-100 points off a previously good score. Bankruptcies, collections, and charge-offs are heavier still and stay on the report for 7-10 years. The reliable way to protect this part of the score is to never miss a payment. Set up autopay for at least the minimum on every account that allows it.
The percentage of your available credit that you are currently using. Total limits of $10,000 with $3,000 in balances equals 30% utilisation. Lower is better:
Utilisation is calculated both per card and across all accounts combined. The practical target is each individual card under 30% and total utilisation under 10%. One detail people miss: utilisation is reported based on the balance on your statement closing date, not the due date. Paying the balance down before the statement closes is what actually causes a low utilisation figure to land on your credit report.
The average age of your credit accounts. Older is better. A 15-year average account age scores higher than a 2-year average. This is why closing old credit cards hurts the score — the account leaves the calculation and pulls the average down. Keep the oldest credit card open, even if you barely use it. Charge one small recurring bill to it (a streaming subscription is enough) and put it on autopay.
Having different types of credit on file — credit cards, an auto loan, a mortgage, student loans — demonstrates an ability to manage more than one debt structure. This category is small. Do not take on debt you do not actually need just to improve your mix. The cost of the loan will dwarf the score benefit.
Each formal credit application generates a hard inquiry. Multiple hard inquiries clustered in a short window read as financial distress and temporarily cost 5-10 points each. There is one useful exception: rate-shopping for a mortgage or auto loan within a 14-45 day window is treated as a single inquiry. Applying for several credit cards in the same month is the opposite case — full damage on each.
The credit score does not directly affect your ability to trade stocks. [[How to Open a Brokerage Account|Brokerage accounts]] for cash trading do not require a credit check. The connection is indirect, but it is real. Good credit is part of the financial foundation that quietly supports an investing plan:
As with the [[What Is an Emergency Fund?|emergency fund]], building good credit is unglamorous work. The score moves slowly. The wins are not exciting. But it is the kind of foundation that makes the rest of a financial plan — investing included — quieter and easier to stick to.
See also: [[What Is an Emergency Fund?]] · [[What Is Compound Interest? The Eighth Wonder of the World|Compound Interest]] · [[How to Open a Brokerage Account]] · [[What Is Margin Trading?]]
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