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A 401(k) is an account your employer sets up that lets you save for retirement before income tax is taken out of your paycheck. The money grows tax-deferred, meaning you owe nothing on contributions or investment gains until you withdraw the money in retirement. Most employers add something to your account on top of what you put in — that match is the closest thing to free money you will see in your working life, and skipping it is one of the most expensive mistakes ordinary households make.
| Category | Annual Limit | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Employee contribution | $15,000 | Pre-tax or Roth (see below) |
| Catch-up (age 50+) | Additional $5,000 | Total: $20,000 for workers 50+ |
| Total (employee + employer) | $44,000 | Includes employer match and profit sharing |
These caps are adjusted for [[What Is Inflation?|inflation]] every so often. The number that matters for most workers is the employee limit — $15,000 in 2006. Hitting the cap builds retirement wealth fastest, but the difference between contributing something and contributing nothing is a much bigger gap than the difference between contributing some and contributing the maximum. Start where you can.
The match is the highest-return, lowest-risk piece of your financial life. If your employer matches 50 cents on the dollar up to 6 percent of pay, contribute at least 6 percent from your first paycheck. Putting in less than that is the same as turning down a portion of your salary every two weeks. People do it anyway, usually because the paperwork looked confusing during onboarding and they meant to come back to it later.
Here is what the math looks like on a $60,000 salary with a 50 percent match up to 6 percent:
The match adds about $204,000 to retirement over thirty years. That is $54,000 of employer money that compounded into more than four times itself. Skipping the match for a decade in your thirties is a number you do not want to put on a notepad in front of yourself when you are fifty-five.
Many employers now offer a Roth 401(k) alongside the traditional version:
| Feature | Traditional 401(k) | Roth 401(k) |
|---|---|---|
| Contributions | Pre-tax (reduces current taxable income) | After-tax (no current tax break) |
| Growth | Tax-deferred | Tax-free |
| Withdrawals in retirement | Taxed as ordinary income | Tax-free (contributions and gains) |
| Best if… | Your tax rate is higher now than in retirement | Your tax rate will be higher in retirement |
The rough rule: early in your career, when you are in a lower bracket and expect to earn more later, the Roth 401(k) usually comes out ahead. In your peak earning years, when you are in your highest bracket, the traditional 401(k) gives you a more useful tax break right now. (I have watched clients spend more time on this single decision than on the rest of their plan combined — if you cannot decide, the honest answer is to split your contributions 50/50 and stop fretting.) Tax diversification is a sensible response to a question nobody can answer thirty years out.
Most 401(k) plans give you somewhere between fifteen and thirty fund choices. For most people, the right answer is one of two simple approaches:
Vesting is how much of the employer match you actually get to keep if you leave the company. Your own contributions are always 100 percent yours from day one. The employer's contributions are often subject to a schedule:
Read your plan document and find out which one you are on. If you are 80 percent vested and thinking about leaving for another job, staying a few more months until you reach 100 percent can be worth thousands of dollars. That is a real conversation to have with a new employer about a start date.
No. Borrowing from your 401(k) to pay off credit cards, fund a down payment, or cover a remodel is a bad idea, and there is no soft way to say it. The loan looks attractive because the interest goes back into your own account, but you are paying that interest with after-tax money — and then it gets taxed again when you eventually withdraw it in retirement. If you lose your job while a loan is outstanding, the unpaid balance generally has to be repaid within a short window or it is treated as an early withdrawal: ordinary income tax, 10 percent penalty, the works. Build an [[What Is an Emergency Fund?|emergency fund]] so you do not have to consider this in the first place. The 401(k) is for retirement. Treat it that way.
Your 401(k) is not a trading account. It is a long-term retirement vehicle, and that is its only job. The combination of [[Dollar-Cost Averaging: The Power of Consistent Investing|dollar-cost averaging]] from automatic paycheck contributions and tax-deferred compounding produces results most active traders cannot match on an after-tax basis. Think of it the way an ice fisherman thinks about a long afternoon on the lake — you set up your gear, you sit, and the work happens slowly. If you want to trade, open a separate [[How to Open a Brokerage Account|taxable brokerage account]] and use that for the higher-conviction positions. Keep the retirement money on its own track.
See also: [[What Is Compound Interest? The Eighth Wonder of the World|Compound Interest]] · [[Dollar-Cost Averaging: The Power of Consistent Investing|Dollar-Cost Averaging]] · [[What Is a Mutual Fund?]] · [[What Is Inflation?]] · [[What Is an Emergency Fund?]]
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