The Traditional IRA
Congress created the Traditional IRA in 1974 so that workers without employer pension plans had a way to save for retirement with tax benefits. For most of its history it was the default retirement vehicle for self-employed people, small-business workers, and anyone whose employer didn’t offer a 401(k).
How the taxes work
- Contributions: may be tax-deductible — meaning they reduce your taxable income in the year you contribute. Whether you can deduct them depends on your income and whether you (or your spouse) have an employer-sponsored plan.
- Growth: tax-deferred. Dividends, interest, and capital gains are not taxed while the money stays inside the account.
- Withdrawals: taxed as ordinary income when you take the money out in retirement, starting at age 59½.
The Traditional IRA is, in plain terms, a tax postponement. You get a break today and pay the tax later. That trade is a good one if your tax rate in retirement turns out to be lower than your rate today, which is the case for many people once their working income stops.
Contribution limits
| Age | Annual Limit |
|---|---|
| Under 50 | $4,000 (2006) / $6,500 (current) |
| 50 and over | $5,000 (2006) / $7,500 (current) |
The limit is shared between Traditional and Roth IRAs. You can split your contribution between the two, but the total cannot exceed the annual cap.
The Roth IRA
The Roth IRA showed up in 1997 and flipped the tax structure on its head. Senator William Roth pushed it through, and for younger workers it has quietly become the single best retirement account available.
How the taxes work
- Contributions: made with after-tax money. No deduction the year you contribute.
- Growth: tax-free. No taxes on dividends, interest, or capital gains. Ever.
- Withdrawals: completely tax-free in retirement, provided you’re past 59½ and the account has been open at least five years. Zero tax on the original contributions and zero tax on decades of investment gains.
That last point is worth sitting with. A $6,500 annual contribution growing at 10% for 30 years comes out to roughly $1.1 million, and every dollar of that comes out tax-free. No other investment account on offer to ordinary people gives you that.
Income limits
The Roth has one catch the Traditional doesn’t: income limits. If your income is above roughly $140,000 single or $208,000 married filing jointly (current numbers; the IRS adjusts them), you can’t contribute directly. There’s a workaround called the backdoor Roth — you contribute to a Traditional IRA, then immediately convert it to a Roth — and high earners use this routinely. It is legal. The IRS has acknowledged the strategy. If your income is in that range, ask your tax preparer about it before tax day.
Traditional or Roth: how to choose
| Factor | Traditional IRA | Roth IRA |
|---|---|---|
| Current tax benefit | Yes (deduction now) | No |
| Retirement tax benefit | No (taxed on withdrawal) | Yes (tax-free withdrawal) |
| Required minimum distributions | Yes, starting at age 72 | No RMDs during your lifetime |
| Early withdrawal of contributions | 10% penalty plus taxes | No penalty on contributions, anytime |
| Income limits to contribute | No (but deductibility may be limited) | Yes (high earners blocked from direct contributions) |
| Generally suits | High earners wanting a tax break now | Younger workers expecting higher future income |
The simple rule of thumb
If you expect to be in a higher tax bracket in retirement than you are now — because you’re early in your career, or because you think federal tax rates are headed up — pick the Roth. If you’re in your peak earning years and expect a lower rate when you stop working, pick the Traditional. When you genuinely don’t know, the Roth is usually the better choice for anyone under 40, because three or four decades of tax-free growth is too valuable to give up.
An honest caveat. Nobody knows what tax rates will be in 2055. The Roth wins on the math you can model today, but you’re also betting that Congress doesn’t change the rules. They’ve grandfathered Roth treatment so far through every tax revision, and the pattern is likely to continue. It isn’t a guarantee.
What you can hold inside an IRA
An IRA at a brokerage gives you access to almost any investment, which is a real advantage over a 401(k) where you’re stuck with whatever menu your employer’s plan offers. Inside an IRA you can hold:
- Individual stocks
- ETFs and mutual funds
- Bonds, individual or in funds
- REITs
- Options, in some IRAs and with restrictions
You can build a quiet portfolio of low-cost index funds in the Bogle tradition, or you can actively trade individual names inside the same tax-sheltered envelope. Many investors do both: a base of index funds and a smaller sleeve for higher-conviction picks.
The Roth as a home for active trading
Here is something many active traders overlook. Inside a Roth IRA, every capital gain is tax-free. In a taxable brokerage account, short-term capital gains are taxed at your ordinary income rate, which can run as high as 37%. Inside a Roth, the same gain is taxed at zero. Over a trading career, the difference compounds into real money.
The catch is that you can only put $6,500 to $7,500 a year into the account, and you cannot use margin inside an IRA. So the Roth isn’t where you run your full trading book. But for the trades you have the most conviction in — the ones you’d genuinely hate to share with the IRS — the Roth is the most tax-efficient place to put them.
Rollovers from a former employer’s plan
When you leave a job, you can roll over your 401(k) balance into an IRA without paying taxes or triggering a penalty. The resulting account is called a rollover IRA. Doing this usually gives you broader investment choices and lower fees than leaving the money in your former employer’s plan. One important note: do the rollover as a direct trustee-to-trustee transfer. If the check is mailed to you, the 60-day rollover rule kicks in and your former plan is required to withhold 20% for taxes. People miss the deadline. They lose the tax shelter on the whole balance. Always tell the plan administrator you want a direct rollover.
What order to fund these accounts
- 401(k) up to the employer match. Free money. Always first.
- Roth IRA up to the annual maximum. Tax-free growth, no RMDs. Second priority.
- 401(k) up to the annual maximum. Additional tax-deferred savings.
- Taxable brokerage account. Active trading and anything beyond the limits above.
That order makes the most of every tax advantage available to you before you start putting money into a regular taxable account. The young couple mentioned at the start did exactly this. They opened Roth IRAs at a discount broker the next week, set up an automatic $300-a-month contribution to each, and split the rest into the husband’s 403(b). Ten years later they’re both still teaching, still saving, and they have more set aside than most people their age. They didn’t do anything clever. They started.
If you don’t have an IRA open yet, that’s the action item this week (Vanguard, Schwab, and Fidelity all let you open one online in about twenty minutes, and the application asks for little more than your Social Security number and a bank account to fund it). Pick Roth if you’re under 40 or your income is moderate. Fund it with whatever you can afford this year, even if it’s $50 a month. The contribution deadline for any tax year runs through April 15 of the following year, so you have time, but the sooner the dollars are in the account the longer they get to grow.
See also: 401(k) · Compound Interest · Dollar-Cost Averaging · How to Open a Brokerage Account · What Is a Mutual Fund?
